Access Atlanta
December 04, 2007
THE OWNERS OF Baraonda, the winning Neapolitan place in Midtown, recently opened Enoteca Carbonari, an Italian wine bar/restaurant, located right next door. Instead of Baraonda's wood-burning pizza oven, though, Enoteca's showpiece is a wood-burning rotisserie, built for cooking such meaty Itlalian classics as porchetta (roasted suckling pig).
WINE LIBRARY: A short walk up Peachtree Street from the Fox Theatre, Enoteca's dining spaces make a cozy escape from the urban bustle. But if diners want to be part of the scene, there are also a few tables out front on the sidewalk patio. Inside, the look reflects the restaurant's name and heritage: Eno means wine; teca means library, though it has come to mean wine bar or wine seller. The Carbonari part comes from the word for a charcoal grill (it was also the name of an Italian secret society). The entrance features a small bar with view into the open kitchen and rotisserie; a side room with "library" shelves of wine offers a different peek into the kitchen; and a more secluded back room opens onto another wall of wine. Bulky stone pillars and wooden beams anchor the vaulted ceilings, accented by recessed lighting, heavy wrought-iron chandeliers, and sturdy wooden tables and chairs.
ITALIAN TREATS: Compared with the massive, cork-covered book that is the wine list, the single-page paper menu seems slight. But it's loaded with simple, tasty treats: from antipasti, such as olives and marinated anchovies; to crostoni, bruschetta-like toasted bread, with a variety of toppings, including yummy robiola and walnuts; and salads, such as bright marinated beets with thin slices of garlic and sprigs of watercress.
MEAT & CHEESE: Priced between $6 and $16, the mix-and-match cheese (Selezione di formaggi) and cured meat (Selezione di salumi) plates are a good deal for sharing. Cheeses are generously and meticulously presented with accompaniments: a creamy Robiola Tre Latte with slices of blood orange; rich and crumbly Parmigiano drizzled with Georgia honey; and Capra al Vino (aged goat cheese soaked in red wine) with a rich fig jam. The meats — Prosciutto di Parma, Salame Toscano, Sopressata Spezie and the like — come artfully sliced and attractively twirled on the plate.
CARBONARI CARNE: On the heartier side, the selection of grilled and roasted meats, chicken and fish includes a $48 "Fiorentina," 28-ounce porterhouse steak. We liked the $15 wild boar sausage special; split and grilled to a light char, it had just a hint of gaminess offset by a bit of sweetness, and it came with broccoli rabe and mixed grilled mushrooms and squash. Boned leg of lamb is stuffed with garlic and pine nuts, cooked on the rotisserie and served rare in thick slices, covered in a juicy sauce. Al a carte vegetables include salty-crunchy cipoletta — spring onions wrapped in pancetta and grilled.
WINE BOOK: Enoteca's extensive wine list includes selections from all over the world, with bottles topping out at $600. But there are bargains, too, including at least 25 wines by the glass, carafe or half-liter.
